featuresJanuary 14, 2021

Last week I decided I wanted the scoop on a new restaurant: Speck Pizza + Street Food. Who opens a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic? The storefront is under construction so I could not get a sneak peek. I sent a message to the Speck Facebook page hoping to get the low down on their opening date, but instead I received an invitation to Gabriel's Food + Wine to meet with owner Gabriele Ruggieri. ...

A burger from Speck.
A burger from Speck.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

Last week I decided I wanted the scoop on a new restaurant: Speck Pizza + Street Food. Who opens a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic? The storefront is under construction so I could not get a sneak peek. I sent a message to the Speck Facebook page hoping to get the low down on their opening date, but instead I received an invitation to Gabriel's Food + Wine to meet with owner Gabriele Ruggieri. I realized this meant I would now have to put on "real" clothes when I was supposed to be on "vacation." I mentally kicked myself for creating work on my day off while simultaneously appreciating the opportunity to make a culinary connection. I imagined a quick 15-minute chat before returning home for warmth and relaxation. That is not what happened, but it was worth it. Two and a half hours later this is what I learned:

Gregarious. That is how I would describe Gabriele. After talking to Gabriele, Chef Johnny and Frank at the downtown restaurant I think it is the perfect description. From the moment I arrived I was met by friendly helpful staff. Then, Gabriele entered the room in a bustle of friendly enthusiasm. As I quietly savored the atmosphere, Gabriele quickly began to direct and instruct. He was a ball of motion, quickly moving from welcoming customers to receiving deliveries and even taking the time to check on me as I got to know Johnny and Frank. The perfect host. He pointed out things to photograph and suggested topics for my article. If you are an artist, you may be chuckling to yourself right now. Telling a photographer what to photograph or a writer what to write is probably like telling a chef how to cook. Sometimes you have to let the story tell itself.

Confidence. Chef Johnny exudes quiet confidence. He is a formally trained chef who has experience in Michelin-starred restaurants all over the world, including the Four Seasons in St. Louis and Canada. He brings maturity, a wealth of culinary knowledge and technique to the local food scene which he looks forward to sharing.

Humility -- a word that captures Frank. Gabriele and Johnny both commented on Frank's work ethic and commitment to elevating his culinary skills, which can be a challenging in the oftentimes stressful, fast-paced kitchen environment. Humility is necessary in any learning process and Frank was clear his goal is to create dishes his customers will rave about.

So, what is the scoop on Speck? They will be offering authentic Italian street food in a casual atmosphere at prices that will allow a wider range of the community to experience the flavors of their homeland. According to their website, another goal is to "create a hub for artists and collaborators" to showcase their music and art in a playfully upbeat environment. Enticing.

The burger at Speck.
The burger at Speck.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo
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I envisioned reading a favorite book along with fresh pastries and espresso. I imagined enjoying a slice of pizza while listening to live music. I thought about gelato and sorbet while stopping to appreciate the work of local artists. I began my return from la-la land and the reality that I will have to wait a couple of months before indulging my whims when the guys gave me great news -- some of the items which will be available at Speck are on the menu at Gabriele's and Frank would be cooking up a couple of dishes for me to sample. My day "off" was really turning into an Italian stay-cation experience.

First, I tried their amazingly succulent Wagyu Burger topped with crisp brightly colored greens and a golden toasted bun which gave my taste buds a lesson on how high-quality gourmet ingredients can elevate the ordinary to extraordinary. The deliciously crisp potato wedges sprinkled with sea salt rounded out the experience.

Next was the Speck flatbread. The crust was made from slow ground flour imported from Italy, topped with speck (smoked Italian meat), cheese, figs and drizzled with fig vincotto. What a little flatbread slice of Heaven! The fig vincotto added a subtle tart sweetness that resulted in a perfect melding of flavors. In fact, I loved the vincotto so much Gabriele let me take the bottle home. I believe I will be trying it on everything.

Who opens a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic? This gregarious, confident, humble, team of people who believe in their product and trust their community.

Speck Pizza + Street Food will open in March.

Pizza from Speck.
Pizza from Speck.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo
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